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When assembling a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might anticipate familiar high-end venues. Yet, situated near the top among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu situated in a far-flung area of northern London.

An Surprise Honour

The compact Turkish spot, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a influential gastronomic guide. This accolade has left the family totally surprised.

“I am totally shocked,” states a owner’s son, referring to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their modest shop securing such a high ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

The compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing spot, has maintained much of its former feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking display, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” says the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the food, and this eatery more than delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a succulent consistency.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. Once the meaty mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, resulting in it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced taste.

Rising Above the Titans

Notably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, comparable meals at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel really proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a personal life but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to echo beyond its own walls. “I think a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the broader importance of this culinary triumph.